Sea Frogs Salted Line a6xxx series waterproof housing – First impressions

UPDATE: You can get a 5% discount off your order for the Sea Frogs Salted Line housing and accessories by putting the code: LSP in the discount box on the checkout page.

Sea Frogs Salted Line a6xxx water housing discount code

You pay less, and I get a small commission which goes towards running this site.

Summary: The Sea Frogs Salted Line a6xxx series is a versatile water housing that has all the features surf photographers need, and some they don’t. Buy it now if you want to take dive and surf photos.

Watch my detailed video for all the information on the Sea Frogs Salted Line a6xxx series waterproof housing:

Sea Frogs Salted Line a6xxx series price

You can buy the Sea Frogs Salted Line housing from the sea frogs website here:


The prices for the items in the video are:

Sea Frogs Salted Line a6xxx series Supported Lenses

I’m slowly building out the list of supported ports and lenses for this housing, so if there’s a specific lens you want to know about leave a comment below or email me on and I’ll do my best to find out for you.

There are at least 4 ports available for the Salted Line a6xxx housing, so there are a lot of lenses that will be supported in some way.

Sea Frogs Salted Line a6xxx series Standard flat port

The standard port that comes with the housing supports the following lenses according to Sea Frogs:

  • Sony E 10-18mm f4 OSS (with zoom)
  • Sony E 16-50mm f3.5-5.6 PZ OSS (with zoom)
  • Sony E 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 OSS
  • Sony E 30mm f3.5 Macro
  • Sony FE 28mm f2
  • Sony E 35mm f1.8 OSS
  • Sony E 50mm f1.8 OSS
  • Sigma 19mm f2.8 DN Art
  • Sigma 30mm f1.4 DC DN
  • Sigma 30mm f2.8 EX DN

Lenses I’ve tried myself in this port:

  • Sigma 60mm f2.8 EX DN


Sea Frogs Salted Line a6xxx series Dome port

Sea Frogs Salted Line a6xxx series water housing first impressions

The dome port officially supports the following lenses (not a complete list, I’ll add to it as I find more):

  • Sigma 16mm f1.4
  • Sony E 10-18mm f4 OSS (with zoom)

Any short fisheye like the Sony 16mm with fisheye adapter, Samyang 8mm f2.8, 7artisans 7.5mm f2.8 or Meike 6.5mm f2 will not work with the current dome port.

Sea Frogs have confirmed that they’re working on a smaller dome which will support some or all of these shorter fisheyes and it should be available in March 2018.

Sea Frogs Salted Line a6xxx series Macro port

The smaller macro port can be used with some small prime lenses, it’s a bit longer but narrower than the standard port. It has a 67mm filter thread on the end so you can attach a macro adapter for dive photography.


  • Internal diameter: 80mm at housing end, 63mm at front end
  • Internal length: 75mm
  • Approximate maximum length of lens: 95mm


You can only buy the port through the Meikon website at the moment. There’s one lens that’s officially supported:

  • Sony E 30mm f3.5 Macro

I’ve tried the following lenses inside and can confirm they work too:

  • Sony E 35mm f1.8 OSS
  • Sigma 60mm f2.8 EX DN

Sea Frogs Salted Line a6xxx series Telephoto port

This one was originally designed for the Sony FE 90mm macro lens and can be used on the Sea Frogs A7 series housing too. Sea Frogs list it as a telephoto port for the a6xxx housing and I’ve tried out two lenses in there and confirmed they work for some of their zoom range.

  • Sony 55-210mm – works between 55 and 135mm – then hits the front element
  • Sony 18-200mm (the old, non power zoom version) – Vignettes up until 35mm, then works until 70mm when it reaches the front element

I haven’t got the zoom working with either of those lenses, I think it would be possible with the 55-210mm, but the 18-200 would probably be too big to fit a lens gear around.

Using the Sea Frogs Salted Line a6xxx series in surf

Sea Frogs Salted Line a6xxx series water housing first impressions

I’ve only taken the housing out once so far. I shot with the Sony 35mm f1.8 lens on my Sony a6000 body and used the pistol grip and the standard flat port.

It worked really well, I was able to focus and shoot separately with the two stage pistol grip, I didn’t need to change settings much, but I was able to use the controls easily when necessary.

It floats fairly high. They now offer a white version which I’d be tempted to get for a bit of added visibility.

I was able to shoot surf photos one handed (I shot some video on my iPhone in an AxisGo in my other hand, it’s at the end of the video above), and didn’t have any issues with how the housing handled in the water.

It’s really clear that this is a dive housing which has had some accessories added to make it easier to use on the surface. It’s heavier and bigger than it needs to be for a surf housing because it has extra features and controls and a deeper depth rating than a surf housing.

Should you buy the Sea Frogs Salted Line a6xxx series housing?

Yes – If you want to go deeper than 5-10m and shoot on the surface too.

Yes – If you are on a tight budget and you don’t want to shoot fisheye surf photos.

Yes – If you have an a6000 but you are going to be getting an a6300 or a6500 in the near future and need to use the same housing.

Maybe – If you want a solid surf water housing, are budget conscious and you don’t travel that much with your kit.

If you’re one of the people I’m talking about above – then you won’t be disappointed with this housing.

No – If you want a small, surf specific housing with ports and features designed for surf photography.

No – If money is no object and you want the best possible surf housing.

Everyone will be different. The good news is, there are so many housings available for the Sony a6xxx range of cameras that one of them will be perfect for you.

Any questions about the housing, or any suggestions for tests I can do with it – let me know in the comments below, or send me an email at


  1. As always another great review thanks Ben. Tried to do a collaboration with Meikon on a pistol grip housing over a year ago. Look like they thought it was a good idea hahaha. Love the Chinese for their integrity and innovation. ;) I have one on order, interested to see how it goes with my Tokina 10-17 and Sigma MC11 paired with the dome. Hope that fits.


    1. Wow, it’s a shame the collaboration didn’t work out, I think the grip could only have benefited from your input, you’re setting the benchmark for one handed surf photo control.

      I think the Tokina + MC11 would be a good fit in the current dome, if you don’t mind the bulk. Not sure there would be a huge benefit over a GoPro Hero 6 + KNEKT KSD6ss + KNEKT GPSS though, I guess bigger raw files and everything that comes with that is the main one, so it’s definitely worth a try.

      I’d be really interested to hear how it works.

      1. Hey ! I know the post is old but is there any follow up information about the tokina 10-17 + adapter inside the seafrogs housing (with 6″ or 8″ dome) ? Does it fit & work ?

        1. The short answer is: I’m not sure if it will fit in either.

          If you’ve got the adapter and lens and you can let me know the total length, then I can check the 6″ port for you.

          1. Thanks man !
            The total length of the setup should be 69 mm (lens) + 25 mm (adapter) = 94 mm. Considering that Seafrogs added lenses like the sony 18-105 F4 to there list, which is 110 mm , “fitting” should not be the problem.
            I was just wondering if it really works ? As a dome produces a “virtual image” I wasn’t sure if the lens can properly focus….

            It’s all a bit odd as the tokina is a very popular lens for UW , but not a single post in a forum or on the sellers website is mentioning it :D

            Anyway, what’s the largest possible length that would fit inside the 6″ ?

          2. Sorry for the delay.
            It should work well in the 6″ dome, the length isn’t an issue, and it’s got a really short minimum focus distance, so it shouldn’t have an issue focusing on the virtual image produced by a 6″ dome.

            If you’re shooting above water, and using autofocus, you’ll need to watch out in case it focuses on the dome port itself, but it’ll only be an issue if there’s something on the port.

            I don’t think anything longer than the 18-105mm will fit in the 6″ port. It’s quite hard to measure, and it depends on how wide your lens or lens hood is. I wouldn’t want to shoot surf photos with a telephoto lens in a dome in any case (the 18-105mm would probably be alright at 18mm, but a flat port would be better at longer lengths).

            I think it’s not mentioned because it’s not a native lens, but there’s no native alternative, so I’m sure there are plenty of UW photographers using it.

            I used the Tokina on my Canon DSLRs, and loved it, but I don’t miss it now I use the really inexpensive, compact e mount fisheyes.

  2. I like that you can use the 50mm and 60mm in the standard port but it looks like a massive fail with dome port (although I understand that this was an existing product) not fitting the popular fisheyes making it virtually pointless for a surf photographer. I will hold back until they release a new dome as apart from the trigger it is not offering much more than their older housing which I use. They should really of Colaborated with an established surf photographer when designing this. I will be interested in seeing what longer prime lenses you can use with the other port. Good review mate

    1. Yeah, a mini dome with no hood would be the killer port for this one. We’ll see what they come up with, it should be available soon at least.

      The pistol grip gives it a huge advantage over the old housing for surf photography though, and shouldn’t be underestimated.

  3. Great article Ben, thanks for doing some solid testing and research. I see you mentioned the Sigma 16mm f1.4 + Sony 10-18mm as good fits for the dome port. Do you think a DSLR fisheye (like the Nikon 16mm or Nikon 10.5mm) with an adapter would be long enough to push the fisheye forward into the port?

    1. I think it probably would, I’ve received my Samyang 8mm f3.5 fisheye and it’s just the right length for the dome. I’ll do some measuring to see what the ideal length would be, then it’ll be a case of adding up the lengths of the adapters ad fisheyes to see if it’ll work.
      I don’t use adapted lenses myself so I can’t test any first hand.

  4. Do you know if the zoom is available for the 16-50mm Kit objectiv within the Macro-Port? Do you already have a updated list of lenses for this port?

    1. The zoom ring will work OK, but that port will vignette with thw 16-50mm lens at least for the wide part of the range.

      I’ve tried the smaller port with the 10-18mm lens and it vignettes, even at 18mm.

      The 16-50mm kit lens (and 10-18mm) will work perfectly with the standard port that’s supplied with the housing, is there a reason you want to use the smaller port?

      I’ll take some measurements and test the prime lenses I have here with the macro port and add some more detail to the page today.

      1. Hey thanks for your replay. I have some 67mm macro-wet-linses which I like to use, but the default port has no 67mm diameter. It would be nice if you can say me, at which focal length you can see vignettes for the 16-50mm lense. How big are the vignettes? Mostly, I cut my pictures with PS or LR. Maybe you have some sample pictures for the different focal length of the 16-500 lense (maybe one for 16, 24, 50…)

        1. I don’t have a 16-50mm lens available right now, I’ll see if I can get hold of one to do some tests for you.

          The port is 75mm long from the inside of the front element to the rear of the bayonet mount, and that’s about 23mm from the lens mount on the camera.

          If you measure your current housing with fixed port, move your camera back a bit to compensate for th shorter port, and do some test shots – you should be able to get a good idea of the focal lengths that will work on your 16-50mm.

          1. Can you say me whats the exact length between the glas of the macro-port and the housing of the A6xxx?

          2. I can’t get any more accurate than what I’ve posted above very easily.
            75mm + 23mm = 98mm
            I wouldn’t rely on that if you’re within a few mm, and I’d be interested if anyone else has the housing and port and has tried to measure it up.

    2. If you’re looking to use the 16-50mm lens with wet lenses, the older fixed-port version of SeaFrogs A6xxxx housing is probably a better fit.

      1. I already own the older Meikon housing for the A6000 (6000 only, not SeaFrog) but
        1) I have quality issues with this housing. The lock was already broken and now I have micro cracks ath the locking mechanism at the housing side

        2) I think to update to the A 6300 or 6500

        I like the metal lock mechanism and the changeable port system

        1. I have the last year’s version of SeaFrogs A6xxx with the fixed port, using it with A6300 + 16-50mm + Meikon wet dome, and I haven’t had any issues with the latch. The interchangeable port system is great – in fact, I’m moving to it shortly – but it’s meant to be used in a certain way. The standard flat port that ships with the housing targets surf users rather than dive users; the dome is meant to be used with Sony 10-18mm or Sigma 16mm f/1.4, and the two macro ports target Sony 30mm macro and FE 90mm macro respectively. Most of my shots are CFWA, so I’m moving from 16-50mm in the fixed port to 10-18mm in the dome port, and eventually I’ll probably add the 90mm macro lens with the appropriate port to my kit.

  5. Hi Ben, thanks for great review! do you know if the Sony FE 55 mm F1,8 fits inside the standard port sold with the housing?

    1. It’s too long for the standard port, it should fit in the smaller macro port, there’s a link to purchase it separately through the Meikon site in the post above.

      I’d consider getting the Sony E 50mm f1.8 (designed for apsc) or the Sigma 60mm f2.8, they’ll both fit in the standard port and be a bit smaller and lighter too.

  6. Hi Ben,
    just for your information: I have contacted Meikon and asked for the 16-50mm kit lense within the Macro port. The answer was the following:

    Hello Daniel,

    sadly 16-50mm won’t work properly in macro port because there is
    vignetting from 16mm till 24mm. Only starts to work correctly at 24mm.
    Later on we will release a new shorter macro port, where 16-50mm lens
    will work as well.

  7. Hi Ben,
    thanks for your in depth review.
    Being on a budget, I was wondering, if there were any additional taxes added to the retail price, the housing being shipped from HongKong. That would from my understanding add another 65€ euros on top (european VAT, with 0% import taxes on camera equipment?)?
    It definetly will differ from country to country, but If so I might think this would be worth mentioning.
    Thank you very much in advanced

    Best Regards

    1. Hi Luis,

      I would definitely go to site that can calculate the duty and taxes you might have to pay when ordering from anywhere overseas.

      It’s something I used to mention in my videos but I forgot about it in this one, thanks for the reminder.

  8. Hey Ben,

    I’ve read and watched everything here more times than I care to admit and I finally made the housing purchase. Thank you for taking the time to research all of this and share such a thorough review. One thing I would love to have your input on is what leash you can/would put on it. There doesn’t seem to be a great place to strap a leash like with an Aquatech housing. In fact I only see four little loops on either side of the camera that may or may not be suitable for tying the leash. I’d appreciate your thoughts! Decent swell in CA this weekend and I’m dying to give it a shot! Thanks, Ben!

    1. Hi John, glad it’s been helpful.

      I forgot all about a leash for my first test shoot, and I grabbed a boot lace as a makeshift one for the second session.
      I’ll explore the options when I do some more filming next week, I think a short, non stretchy wrist leash is the way to go, there are a few I’ve used, Aquatech and KNEKT both make good ones from memory.

      Attaching to the bottom of the pistol grip has always worked well for my other housings, but the loops on the housing itself should work fine too.

      I’ll update when I’ve figured it out, for now, a bodyboard wrist leash would do the job, or a decent string lanyard with some rubber padding if you’ve got one handy.

      1. Thank you for the prompt reply! To follow up, I ordered a Knekt bicep tether from their site ( and at least in CA it’s on sale (Feb28,18) for $9.99 but you pay shipping in case anyone else is wondering. I’ll be sure to post an update here once I take it out in case others are interested. Thanks again, Ben.

        1. Thanks John, I’m sure that’ll do the job. The bicep leashes stay out of the way a bit more, but they have to be longer, so there’s more chance of the housing swinging around if you do let go of it.

          I’ve only lost grip on a housing once or twice in hundreds of sessions though. You’re pretty well motivated to keep hold of it, and it’s not too slippery, especially with a pistol grip.

          1. Just wanted to follow up in case someone is interested. It wasn’t clear on the product page; I tied the leash onto the camera similar to how you tie a boog leash. Ben, you described it perfectly. If I were to drop the camera with the leash on while on land, it would still hit the ground. Still, it feels really secure and out of the way when I took it in the water. I’m going to play around with it a bit more and see how it holds up in heavier waves, but in all honesty I’m thinking the wrist leash will be a better call. Couldn’t figure out how to link an image better but hopefully this does the job.

            Ben, I got almost all of the functions to work but I am yet to get the 5 control wheel arrows in a + shape to work (to change ISO or move through the menu). I put in all the a6000 adapter parts and the wheel turning function works. Did you have any issue with this? Any ideas on how to fix this? Thanks for your help and input. Much appreciated!

          2. Hey John.
            I’m sure that leash will hold, and stay out of the way, but you might prefer a shorter wrist leash just so there’s less slack. I sure it’ll do the job though.

            I’ve just double checked my housing and the 5 cross shaped buttons all work as expected. Maybe check that the insert is aligned properly, mine clips in quite securely when it’s in the right place.

            Then I’d check if the camera is aligned in the housing. I can’t imagine what else would cause that issue.

  9. do you know if any of the ports will work (well) with the Sony FE 55mm f1.8 or FE 85mm f1.8?

    I have a liquideye right now for a6000. but this looks like maybe a better option for my needs since it supports the 10-18mm, and has flash cable outputs. Not to mention tool-less entry, and ability to upgrade to a6300 or a6500.

    I’d rather not buy the E 50mm 1.8 if the FE 55mm is an option.

    1. My 2 cents words, 10-18 is not a really interesting focal range to shoot in the water. According to my experience, people who own the Tokina 10-17 (which is a quite similar focal range) rarely use this lens at 17mm but only as a fixed lens at 10mm. I guess you will do the same with the 10-18.
      Tool-less entry is another point but do not forget the latches on the Seafrogs are from NRH (a Shanghai based company) and they are not secured as the ones from Nielsen Session as on Aquatech models. So it means they can accidentally open if they get hooked by something like a leash for example. We have been reported even the Nielsen secured latches got those issues every now and then. And if this happen, you can say good bye to your precious gear.

      1. What are the alternatives to 10-18mm though, if you’re looking for a rectilinear ultrawide on APS-C E-mount? Zeiss 12mm is not as wide, not compatible with PDAF, and I’ve read it has issues fitting into ports with its flared end, Rokinon/Samyang 12mm is manual-focus only, and 16mm with ultrawide adapter has, by many accounts, significant IQ issues. There is the excellent FE 12-24mm, but it’s big, heavy, costs $1600, and isn’t as wide as the 10-18mm on APS-C – its full-frame coverage is wasted on a crop sensor.

        1. I can’t speak for Philippe, but personally I prefer the fisheye look, so I haven’t shot with an ultrawide rectilinear for a long time. I can de-fish the 7artisans 7.5mm fairly easily if I need to.

          If there’s enough light for f8, the Rokinon/Samyang 12mm will have enough depth of field to get everything beyond 50cm in focus I expect.

          The newly announced Laowa 9mm f2.8 Zero-D could be an option if you need rectilinear, but I imagine it’ll be pricey.

          1. I suppose this will work on the surface, but coming from a diver’s perspective, 50cm is often the outer edge of what’s usable – water (and stuff in it) simply absorbs way too much light. Laowa 9mm looks interesting, but again, manual-only, so not very useful underwater.

      2. I’m definitely someone who just uses the widest end of a wide angle zoom for my surf photos.

        I just did some analysis with Lightroom on the 3 zoom lenses I have used for surf photography which are in this focal range:

        Tokina 10-17mm – shots taken at 10mm: 86% (6414 out of 7443)
        Sigma 10-20mm – shots taken at 10mm: 77.5% (4689 out of 4689)
        Canon 10-18mm – shots taken at 10mm: 97.8% (676 out of 691)

        I haven’t used the Sony 10-18mm in the surf yet, but I guess it’ll be similar.

  10. im just starting out with surf photography and i shoot mainly portraits. do you think i should buy this housing or save up and get a liquid eye waterhousing instead?

  11. What would you say is the sharpest lens to use with the housing? Sigma 16mm with dome port? Does the Sigma 60mm go OK in there too? I see you have listed it. Also what would you recommend as the sharpest fisheye?

    1. Both the Sigma 16mm and the Sigma 60mm are very sharp, but for my purposes any of the decent primes are more than sharp enough.

      I’d think about the focal length you want rather than sharpness. A 35mm might be a better option than 16mm or 60mm even if it’s not quite as sharp (the Sony 35mm f1.8 is one of my favourites).

      All the fisheyes I’ve used are very sharp in the centre when stopped down. Pick the one that fits inside your port.

      Currently I use the Meike 6.5mm circular fisheye and de-fish if necessary. I’ve got a panoramic print about 25 inches across on my wall from the a6000 and Meike 6.5mm (the circular image is cropped to a rectangle) and it looks great.

      I’ve also got some sharp shots from the kit lens in a housing, but the focus isn’t as consistent as with a prime lens.

  12. Hi Ben can I use the sigma 60mm with the port that is shipped with the case? Or I have to buy another port?
    I have the standard 16-50mm and the sigma 60 for fish photo

    1. Hi Luca,
      The Sigma 60mm f2.8 fits in the standard port that comes with the housing. The 16-50mm also fits and there’s a zoom gear for it so you can control the zoom when it’s in the housing too.

  13. Hi Ben, do you know if the Sony 50mm f1.8 will fit into the macro port withou vignetting?

    1. Hi Daniel,
      I tried it out quickly and it should be fine with no (or very little, I didn’t look at the files on my computer) vignetting in the short macro port.

      It also works perfectly in the standard port.

  14. what would you say about the Samyang 8mm f/3.5 UMC Fish-eye which also fits in this housing?

    1. The image quality is good, and it works well in the dome port, so if you want a fisheye it’s a good option.

      If you’re not in a rush, it might be worth waiting for the smaller dome port as you can use a much smaller, lighter fisheye like the samyang f2.8

      1. thanks I have the current Dome port so I am not really interested in another dome at this point. I have the Sigma 16mm 1.4 but am debating whether to go a fisheye with a manual focus

        1. In that case it’s probably the only native e mount fisheye that will fit.

          If you want to shoot fisheye it’ll work well, it’s just bigger than the other options.

    1. Hi Daniel, I don’t think the link you posted is working, it might just be my phone.
      Could you let me know the product name of the new port and I’ll check it out. Thanks.

      1. Hi,

        hmm your right I can not insert the link here :(

        Navigate to -> A6XXX SALTED LINE

        The last port (Macro port for A6xxx Salted Line) is the port I asked for. The port can only be preordered at the moment.

        1. Thanks, I can see the port you mean, I’ll see if I can get hold of one once they are available. I don’t have the Sony 30mm macro lens, but I’ve got the other two. I’ll see if I can find a deal in the macro lens at some point.

  15. I have a question about whether the standard flat port would accommodate the 16-50mm kit lens along with both Meika extension tubes?
    With both the 10mm and 16mm attached the length is roughly 56mm from what I understand

    1. Hi Dane,
      I don’t think it’ll work in the standard port, the macro port might be ok though as it’s a bit longer.

      I did a very unscientific experiment with the 16-50mm and a cardboard tube that was about 26mm (I assume that gives you a rough equivalent of the setup you describe).

      The lens would extend, then hit the element of the port and I’d get an error message, it went away after powering off and on.

      I think the 56mm length is when the lens is unextended, as soon as you turn it on it extends quite a lot.

      1. Cool thanks for the info man and going through the trouble to find that out, that discount code you provided doesn’t seem to work at the moment. Not sure if you are aware

  16. Hi, Ben. Do you think the latches are safe enough not to open by accident or would it be better so secure them with some sticking tape or so? Thanks. Nico

    1. Hi Nico,
      I’ve never had any issues with the latches, but I guess it’s possible that they could get caught if you’re really unlucky.

      I wouldn’t worry about it, tape and stuff would be a pain to sort out every session I reckon.

      1. Thanks for your answer. I just ordered a housing. I will see how well the latches lock it. Cheers. Nico

  17. Hey Ben

    Do you have any updates as to when they will be releasing a dome port to accommodate the Sony 16mm and fisheye converter lens. Meikon states in will be 15 June according to an answered question on the website

    1. Hi Dane,
      I don’t know for sure, 15 June would be great, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it was a bit later than that. I do know it’s definitely being made right now so it shouldn’t be too long.

      1. Thanks for the reply man. Any experience with the sea frogs underwater strobes? How would they weigh up against the SEA & SEA YSD01 OR 02

        1. I’ve actually just got hold of a Sea Frogs ST-100 Pro, but I’ve only used it once. I’ve also never used any SEA & SEA strobes.

          First impressions are that it works great, although I’m not doing any diving with it, so I’d seek out an opinion from other people.

          1. Ok thanks man, sorry one more thing. Hows the quality of those strobe arms and ball clamps?

          2. I don’t have much experience with the alternatives, but I’ve got a tray, a couple of arms, a cold-shoe to ball adapter thing and some ball joints and they are all really good.

            From some research the design is pretty standard, and the quality of materials looks great. I was happily surprised when the fairly large strobe held firmly in place above the housing (I had it mounted to the cold-shoe via a ball joint adapter) even when swimming under and through waves. They’re really easy to adjust quickly too.

  18. Hi Ben thanks for great reviews like your job I’m wondering about few things I’m looking to get seafrogs housing for sony a6300 and I’m not really sure if I should get dome port or just flat port I will use 16-50 sony and sigma 30mm f.2.8 and sigma 60mm f2.8 think that flat port should works well but do you think is it worth to get dome port too for these lenses?What is the different between them?Is it just that you can take split shoots with dome port or are there any other benefits? I’m waiting once they will come up with small dome port for samyang 8mm f2.8 or something like that which would be great for tubes pics thanks for answer have a good one

    1. Hi Martin,
      I would stick with the standard flat port.
      The dome is good for over under but you really want a wider lens (like a fisheye or the 10-18mm) to get the best split shots.
      For the lenses you have I’d go for a flat port every time.

        1. I’ve used it once so far. I used it on an a6500 in the Sea Frogs housing with the dome port.

          It seems like a great lens, if you want that focal length it’ll be a great option. I usually prefer to shoot with a fisheye or a normal length lens, so I haven’t really got anything to compare it to except the kit lens, which I haven’t used that much either.

          I’ll try and use it a bit more, I think it’ll be good for seascape shots at dusk or dawn, allowing for a shallow depth of field whilst still getting the whole scene in.

  19. Hi, Great reviews

    I am wondering of you tried this housing with handles on, is it easy to reach the shutter button ? I am also curious if you’ve tested any of their strobes like the ST-100 Pro in their website.

    1. Hi Ahmed,

      I haven’t tried it with side handles, only with and without the pistol grip.

      The shutter button is pretty big and very easy to reach when just using the housing on it’s own, so I doubt it would be much different with a good set of side handles.

      I’ve had one shoot with the ST-100 Pro strobe – but I was only using it for surface shooting, so I can’t speak to how well it would work underwater. I’ll probably get to try it out a bit deeper, a few metres max, over the summer, so I’ll add some feedback once I do.

      It worked perfectly when I used it though.

      1. Thanks. I intend to use it for scuba diving to 40m. I need to review the performance and ergonomics of the housing with dual strobe set.
        unfortunately I can’t find such review anywhere . would be great if you can guide me to any site who tested it or test them yourself and try scuba diving :)

        1. I don’t do any diving myself so I wouldn’t know where to look unfortunately.

          I imagine the ergonomics are very similar to any of the other dive housings that meikon make, so I’d try a more general search to see if you can find anything.

      2. Question about ST-100 Pro – how quickly does it actually cycle, at full and half power levels?

        1. OK, I’ve tried to figure this out, let me know if there’s a more sensible way to do it. I’m new to strobes.

          I started a stop watch on my phone, put it in high speed continuous shooting mode, manual focus, held the shutter button down and then worked out the time difference between the two photos based on the stop watch reading. I did a few bursts and it felt pretty consistent.

          Full power: 0.98 seconds
          Half power: 0.93 seconds

          The batteries have been used for a few dozen photos over a couple of sessions, if that makes a difference?

          1. Thank you – less than a second at full power is amazingly fast; I believe it’s better than most strobes on the market. I think only Retra strobes with the optional 8-battery compartment cycle faster. If anything, the on-camera flash triggering it will be the limiting factor, not the strobe. This dispels my last remaining doubt about ordering a pair of these rather than going with used Inon Z-240s or Sea & Sea YS-D1s.

          2. That makes me think there might be an error in my test somehow. I guess it was ideal conditions, with manual focus and only a few shots fired each time. It definitely seemed pretty rapid though. I was using the a6500 too, with a full battery, if that would affect it.

          3. Was the strobe in manual or TTL mode? If it was in TTL, then the camera may have had it firing below full strength, and the EV adjustment by the right-side dial wasn’t enough to get it to a full discharge.

          4. I just double checked and it was in manual mode. I actually just tried blazing away in every mode on the strobe with the EV adjustment at both ends of the scale for each mode, and I got about a second each time (I wasn’t timing it this time). There wasn’t a noticeable difference between minimum and maximum power, both recycled in about a second. I think the on camera flash is the limiting factor as you said.

            I can’t find any figures anywhere else on line, only one site mentions recycle speed and it just says “nearly instant” – which is pretty meaningless.

  20. Hi Ben, I’m interested in buying this underwater case for my a6000, I use it for underwater photography only. Can you tell me the distance between the two 1/4 screw holes on the bottom of the case? There is only two right? Thanks, Daniel Silva .
    I’m also very interested in some underwater reviews of the seafrogs st100-pro flash, it looks like a good alternative to the sea and sea flashes but I’m a bit concerned about flooding issues at greater dephts .
    Anyone with more details about the flash?

    1. Hi Daniel,

      There are only two 1/4″ screw holes on the bottom and they are approximately 8cm apart, measured from the centre of each hole.

      I don’t know of any reviews of the ST100-Pro flash, I’ve got one, but only used it once, and only on the surface.

      Everything feels really solid but I’m not familiar with deep diving so I’m not sure what I’m looking for really.

      If I find any reviews or feedback on the housing and flash from divers I’ll let you know.

      1. Hi Ben, thank you very much for your reply! That’s been very helpful, I need to see if my underwater tray will fit with the new case… By the way can you tell me what is the measure of the case, from side to side? I want to know if i have enough space between the handles in my underwater tray.
        I have the previous underwater case model from seafrogs, do you happen to compared them in terms of size? The new model is significantly bigger? That’s another of my concerns because i do travel frequently and the size and weight does really matter in our days, but I really want to use my Sony 10-18mm underwater and this is the only “buyable” case… At least for my wallet… Keep up the good work Ben! Cheers, Daniel Silva

        1. The housings themselves are almost identical in size; main difference comes from the dome. Same tray fits both housings, but I had to extend the handles a bit further out because the mounting holes on the new housing are further apart. Here are a few comparison shots – old housing with Meikon’s wet dome, new housing with tray and 6″ dry dome.

  21. Hey Ben

    They’ve released the 4″ dome port for pre-order. But the port has no hood…
    Any idea whats going on there, surely this port is more prone to damage.

    Any updates on how you getting on with the strobes?

    1. Hey Dane,

      The 4″ dome is designed primarily for surface work like surf photography as far as I know. In that situation a hood actually gets in the way and can push water around that gets in your shot.

      If you look at dome ports for surf housings from any of the established brands (Aquatech, Liquid Eye, SPL, Salty surf housings, CMT etc.) none of them have a lens hood.

      I’ve had a couple of scratches on my dome ports in the past, but a hood probably wouldn’t have helped much.

      I did a quick shoot a couple of days ago with the Sony 30mm macro lens and the strobe. I need a lot more practice with the setup to get consistent results, but I was happy with the way it worked. The controls are pretty good, the strobe and arms feel really solid.

      If I ever use it underwater enough to get proficient I’ll report back, but it’s quite a learning curve and I don’t get to shoot on flat days too often.

  22. Question:
    Does the salted line a6xxx water housing dry dome port accommodate the sam yang 8mm lens?

    1. There are a couple of dome ports and a few samyang 8mm lenses, so it depends on your combination.

      The Samyang/Rokinon 8mm f3.5 fisheye (link: fits in the larger dry dome port (

      The Samyang/Rokinon 8mm f2.8 fisheye V2 ( fits in the smaller 4″ dome port (

      So make sure you get the right lens/port combo and you’ll be fine.

  23. For what it’s worth, I got the small dome and tested the 7Artisans 7.5mm f/2.8 lens in it – the lens fits and I’m able to control focus using the 16-50mm lens gear and some double-sided tape, but there is some corner vignetting; I suppose 192 degree FoV is just too wide. Samyang 8mm f/2.8 should be fine.

  24. Hey Ben, great videos mate, I use a Nex 5T for surf shots currently but also own an a6000, thinking about getting the salted line housing. I don’t travel far from Cornwall often so think it might be a good way to go! What shipping method do you suggest when purchasing and do you get import charges for the housing?

    1. Thanks Danny, it sounds like it could be a good option for your a6000.

      Shipping wise I think the standard option is pretty reliable, but obviously takes longer than UPS, the packaging on mine was good, so I doubt you’d have any issues. If you need it quick I’d pay the extra.

      The tax and duty are estimated on the shipping page and depends on what you’re ordering. I’d always expect to pay them on delivery (for me it means a trip to the local Royal Mail depot to pay and collect), but it’s possible to get lucky on some shipments.

      1. Hey Ben, I’ve picked up the original black a6000 housing by meikon cheap on ebay. It’s watertight after a few tests, needs a good clean though, do you suggest any brands of silicone grease? or should I be trying to get hold of meikon grease? Does it matter too much which one to use?

        1. I just use whatever I find first, so I’ve used the stuff I got with Meikon, Aquatech and Canon housings on all the different brands in the past. I wouldn’t worry about it.

          Small tubes and pots are easy to find on line if you search for ‘silicone grease diving’ or something similar, otherwise you’ll end up with a lot of car products and industrial sized tubs. Or just pop in to a local dive shop, they’ll have some for sure.

          I might be wrong and it could be very important to get exactly the right stuff, but I’ve never had any issues with using whatever I have handy.

    1. I replied on the other post’s comments, basically it should fit but with no focus control.

      You might be better off using the standard flat port with it, if it doesn’t vignette.

      1. Hi Ben, thanks for your answer. I’ve tested it in the standard flat port and there is no vignetting. But I think for underwater photgarphy, a dome port is better.

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