Spot M – Fisheye Shoot 15/12/13

I shot a bunch of photo’s at Spot-M today using the Tokina 10-17mm fisheye, I will be processing them and uploading them when I get a chance, the light was pretty poor but the waves were really good fun.

I tried out the “point at the beach more than the wave” technique (mentioned in this post about the water photographers on the North Shore of Hawaii) that I think works well most of the time, so I’ll publish a post with some pro’s and con’s with examples soon.

ISO: 160, 10mm, f3.5, 1/1000
ISO: 160, 10mm, f3.5, 1/1000

Here’s a shot I like because of the framing of the bodyboarder in the barrel, even though I was out of position and struggling to make sure I wasn’t in the way, it turned out OK, more from this session soon.

If you think I might have got a shot of you contact me on: ben@learningsurfphotography.com

Comments

  1. Hi,
    Why do you shoot with such a wide aperture in the water? Is it just so you can have the ISO at 160? Because if so personally I would recommend bumping the ISO and closing down your aperture a bit for a sharper image, as modern DSLRS can cope with a higher (slower) ISO without really adding any noticeable grain when reproduced at this size (and at 72dpi for web upload) where as having your aperture so wide will reduce the sharpness. Its obviously personal preference, but depending on your sensor size (look up optimum aperture for sensor size) you might get a sharper image in this light at say ISO400, F7.1, 1/1200.

    1. Hey Luke,

      I was shooting in Shutter Priority on this day (with auto ISO max 1600), my CR-60 housing only has controls for the top dial, Live View button and shutter release, I was also planning on doing some bodyboarding as well as shooting so I didn’t want to dial in some settings at the car and have to open the housing with wet hands at the beach.
      So the ISO and Aperture were not under my control, just the shutter speed.

      I’m not too bothered by a higher ISO usually, anything up to 800 seems fine for my use like you say, and moving to shooting in manual as much as possible is one of my aims as I gain more experience, so it’s really good to get a suggestion for the settings you’d recommend in this situation.

      Wouldn’t those settings underexpose by a stop compared to the original though? I might be missing something, but an ISO of 800 at f7.1, 1/1200 would be equivalent I think?, even if that is the case though, ISO 800 is not a problem so it would undoubtedly make for sharper pictures.

      I think I’ll go through my Lightroom library and pick out some more settings for various conditions to try out to make sure I’m getting the best out of the camera and lens combo at some point, right now I’m still working on some more basic techniques like pointing the camera in the best direction.

      Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment.
      Ben.

  2. Hey,
    Yes that makes sense! You could in that situation have it on shutter priority at 1/1200, and fixed iso of 400 and then you’d be more likely to get a more favourable aperture for sharpness. I would say at 800 iso you might start noticing a little bit of grain, depending on your camera, and you shouldn’t really ever need to go above 400 in the water. However its really down to personal preference and you seem to have a pretty solid grasp on the technical side.
    And your right about the settings I suggested not being equivalent, I didn’t work it out properly (a product of the digital age where your camera works it out for you no doubt) it was just a guestimate.
    Look forward to seeing more of your stuff in the future.
    Luke.

    1. Yeah, that does sound like it would work better than the auto ISO I had set-up, I will try it out next time, might even get in the water today with the fisheye, but it’s such crap weather it’s a good excuse to just go for a surf instead.

      Thanks for the tips, I’ll let you know how they go.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *